Making beeswax candles the first time may sound difficult or even overwhelming but it's rather simple. I recommend using a silicone candle mold over metal and other types because it doesn't stick to the sides which makes it much easier to remove. Beeswax shrinks as it cools which makes it easier than other types to take out of molds.
1. The first step is purchasing the beeswax.
2. Break up the beeswax with a hammer and chisel if it comes in block form. Beeswax is extremely tough.
3. Make a double boiler. Get a pot for cooking and also a smaller pot that can fit inside it, hence the term double. Find two mason jar covers for a spacer between the pots. Fill the bigger pot with water about 1/3 to 1/2 full and place the spacers on the bottom. The spacers are meant for protection against fire. The inner pot holding the wax cannot touch the bottom where the element is the hottest. Then, put the smaller pot or JUG in my case inside the larger pot with the wax. Turn the oven on to a medium heat or just enough to boil the water. Always use a thermometer to measure the wax temperature so it doesn't ignite. Beeswax has an ignition point at 204 degrees C or 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep watch of the gauge while the wax melts. On my oven, I use number 4 heat. My wax never tends to get hotter than 160 F on medium heat.
WICKING THE MOLD:
1. In the case of a silicone mold and having my wick with me. Different sized molds need different size wicks. Please refer to a wicking chart for further instruction. The wicks I use are cotton environmentally friendly smokeless wicks. The kinds I use are numbered 4/0.....3/0........2/0..........1/0..........1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. Each wicking size corresponds to the width of the candle. Check the Atkins and Pearce model.
Once you find your proper sized wick, you're ready to go. In the case of a silicone or metal mold, use a wicking needle to either push or tie it through the wicking needle hole to pull the wick through. Mostly, I use the needle end to push the wick through the molds hole. The hole at the end of your needle isn't big enough for thicker wick depending on your wicking needle, so if the mold your using has depth, just use some needle nose pliers to pull it through.
2. Cut your wick and leave no more than half an inch of slack outside the hole. On the open end of the mold which is the bottom of your candle, with popsicle sticks or another contraption, take a bobby pin and place the wick through so it holds. Place the bobby pin on two popsicle sticks with the wick through it so it holds it in place on the edges of the silicone or metal mold. You can cut the wick with scissors. Personally, I use wire cutters.
3. Once the wax is melted, make sure to pour at 145 F to 160 F or face sink holes and bubbles. If that does occur, simply pour more wax into the sink hole until it fills. Let it sit until it cools or if you want to speed up the process, let it sit and settle for one hour then put it in the freezer. In my experience, it doesn't matter how long they are left in there but just be extra careful that it doesn't break when removing.
4. Remove the candle from the silicone mold and cut both ends to your specifications and you're done!!!